How to Build a Sturdy Takedown Bucksaw

by Todd Walker

A saw is safer to use than an ax. My Bacho Laplander folding saw has performed admirably for over 4 years. With an eight inch blade, this fine folding saw has its limitations when cutting larger diameter wood. But I love its portability. It has a permanent spot on my ring belt when I venture into the woods.


I’ve used my folding saw to cut up to 4 or 5 inch logs. Over that diameter, I usually reach for my ax. But here’s the catch…

I sometimes need a clean cut on larger logs for projects at my trapping shelter. A bucksaw would fit the bill perfectly. The thing is, I don’t want to haul one of my bucksaws to the woods. They’re too cumbersome to carry.

A takedown bucksaw would solve my problem! I needed something that I could break down and toss in my rucksack.

Dave Canterbury to the rescue! I’d seen him make a bucksaw from a few sticks in nature a few years ago. I ventured to my shelter in the woods to make one.

My attempt to make one from red cedar was a fail. I didn’t carve a mortise and tenon joint on the cross member (fulcrum).  I figured, lazily, that a point on both ends of the cross beam would work. Not so. It was fun to make but was not sturdy enough to cut small dried limbs. Thankfully, Dave also made a video tutorial for a takedown bucksaw from dimensional lumber.

Back to the drawing board in my shop.

Here’s how I made mine. (I’ve uploaded a video I made that may help with details on this project. It’s at the end of this article if you’d like to watch.)

Gather the Stuff

  • 1 Bacho 51-21 Bow Saw Blade, 21-Inch, Dry Wood (under 10 bucks on Amazon) – the saw blade will be your biggest expense on this project
  • 60 inches of 2×2 lumber (dumpster dive at building sites or buy at a building supply store)
  • 10 inches of 1×2 lumber (scrap pallet wood)
  • 2 – 10 d nails
  • 50 inches of 550 paracord


  • Saw
  • Drill and bits
  • Hammer or maul
  • Wood chisel
  • Vice – helpful but not necessary
  • Pencil
  • Measuring device

Note: I built this takedown saw in my pajamas at 2 AM. Couldn’t sleep so thought I better get busy Doing the Stuff. The only power tool used was an electric drill. Didn’t want to risk waking DRG and the neighbors.🙂

Cut the Stuff

If you don’t have scrap 2×2 lumber lying around, rip a 2×4 in half (with a table saw). Unless you’re skilled in carpentry, I don’t recommend using a circular saw to rip 2×4’s. You’ll need those fingers later.

Cut List

  • 2 – 15 inch 2×2’s (verticals)
  • 1 – 20 inch 2×2 (cross beam)
  • 1 – 8 inch 1×2 (tension paddle)

Prep the Wood

Make a center mark on the two vertical pieces. This is where the cross beam will mate in a mortise (female) and tenon (male) joint.

Cut tenons on both ends of the cross beam. Mark a line about 1/2 inch on all four sides of each end of the cross member. Secure in a vice and cut the lines about 1/4 inch deep on all four sides on each end to create a shoulder tenon. Once cut, chisel the cut pieces away from the ends of the stock.

Cut a 1/2 to 3/4 inch slot on the bottom ends of each vertical piece. These slots will receive the bow saw blade. Drill a hole that will snuggly fit the 10d nails in each of the two slotted ends.

Now align the tenon on each vertical at your halfway mark and pencil in the shape for the mortise. Drill a hole inside the outline to match the depth of the tenon. My tenon’s were 3/4’s long – about half the depth of the 2×2 verticals. Chisel out the remaining wood from the mortise joint to the proper depth. Dry fit the cross beam to the verticals. Tweak the mortise as needed to gain a snug mortise and tenon joint.


With the cross beam inserted into the verticals, install the saw blade in the two slotted ends of the verticals. Remove the blade and place it on top of the slotted verticals. With your pencil, outline the holes and bore the appropriate size hole that matches the nail you will use as a pin for the saw blade. Reassemble the saw and insert pin nails.

Drill two holes about one inch in from the end of the 1×2 paddle. Use a drill bit that will allow enough room for the paracord to pass through. Lace one end of the paracord through the two holes in a weaving fashion. Loop the paracord around the top  ends of the two verticals. Pull tight and secure the cordage with a knot. I used a fisherman’s knot.

Wind the paddle in a circular motion to tighten the cordage. Once you are satisfied with the tension on the saw blade, allow the paddle to toggle on the cross beam.

Now you’re ready to test your inexpensive takedown bucksaw. I cut a 3 inch piece of dried poplar with ease in my shop. Even the 9 inch hickory log in my sawbuck was no match for this little beast. The Bacho dry wood saw blade is fantastic for processing large dry wood rounds!

To break the saw down, simple untwist the paracord and disassemble the frame. The entire saw can be wrapped in a large 100% cotton bandana and packed in your rucksack or backpack. You can always use a multipurpose bandana for other camping or wilderness self-reliance training.

While I’ll always carry my folding Bacho Laplander, this takedown bucksaw just made wood cutting tasks at my base camp much more convenient.

Here’s my video tutorial… and a short clip of my failed attempt with natural material. If you haven’t checked out my channel yet, we’d appreciate you subscribing, liking, and sharing any material you find valuable.

Keep Doing the Stuff of Self-Reliance,


P.S. – You can also keep up with the Stuff we’re Doing on TwitterPinterestGoogle +, YouTube, Instagram, and Facebook… and over at the Doing the Stuff Network.

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Categories: Bushcraft, Camping, DIY Preparedness Projects, Doing the Stuff, Frugal Preps, Gear, Self-reliance | Tags: , , , | 20 Comments

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20 thoughts on “How to Build a Sturdy Takedown Bucksaw

  1. Pingback: How to Build a Sturdy Takedown Bucksaw | Modern Homesteader

  2. Caroline Cooper

    Neat idea. I love caveman carpentry and caveman tools! It’s so great being able to use scape materials to make useable tools. It’s the road to freedom, Todd.🙂

    Liked by 1 person

  3. animatio

    a suggestion for a “real bushcraft”-type design. producible everywhere you go outdoors (and consequently easier to pack).
    1 change the basic design a bit following this antique design.
    2 all you need to carry with you are blade, cord, bolts (or nails) needed (about 4 to 6)
    3 on place you look out for hardwood sticks or saplings of a good diameter and cut the 4 pieces needed (1 center pole, 2 side bows, 1 spanner)).
    then you will apply with your knife, folding saw or axe the cuts and holes needed. assemble the whole and you will be ready to go. anywhere, anytime.
    4 a tip: use some soap on the blade for a smoother cut

    have fun

    the antique saw design
    what one actually does in modifying the design is changing center and side bow construction.


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  9. adventureiq

    Todd- Always love your stuff— woke this morning and decided to upgrade the bucksaw I built in the woods for a class and your site was the first one I went to. Great stuff– keep up the work!
    Adventure IQ


    • Thanks, Rob! Happy to hear your doing the stuff and sharing the knowledge with your folks. Love what you’re doing, especially the Kids Survival Camp!


  10. Reblogged this on ROWAN OATH KEEPERS.


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  13. Haven’t gone and gotten one yet but Harbor Freight has a bow saw with 2 blades on sale right now for $5.99

    Gonna try to get to the local store tomorrow to pick one up to make one of these bucksaws. Will let you know what quality blades these are.



    • Sounds good, man. Hope they’re winners!


      • Went by Harbor Freight and got the saw. Had a 20% off coupon which worked with the already on sale saw so final price including tax was $5.27!

        Looks and feels like a much higher priced item. Does come with an extra blade which also has a reusable blade guard. Blade teeth are flame hardened, have a good set to them, and are sharp.

        Tried the saw on a small diameter piece of very dry cedar and after getting it started (quite hard so the saw wanted to walk at first) it cut great. Tried it on a piece of semi dry (6 months cut) privet and it cut that much better. Will make one of the takedown saw frames asap and see how the extra blade works in it.

        After trying this one I think I’ll go back and get another one to keep in the truck (which will also give me another blade to play with).😉


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